The evince print dialogue no longer works in 3.28.5_13. Previously I had 3.28.5_8, but I cannot explain why the former worked and the latter does not. I updated the rest of ports at the same time, so it is possibly some other dependency that is the root cause (gtk3 seems most likely).
Regardless, attempting to print a PDF produces no user visible response. On a console, the following message is printed:
(evince:90654): Gtk-WARNING **: 15:01:28.786: GtkPrintOperation::create-custom-widget not supported with portal
It seems that GTK has invented some sandboxing mechanism called "portals," and evince now runs in this mode (or something like that). The mechanism is supposed to have a print service listening on DBUS, provided by the xdg-desktop-portal-gtk software. Unfortunately, we do not seem to have xdg-desktop-portal-gtk in FreeBSD ports at this time, and evince (gtk?) is missing a dependency on that service.